Tag

intercooler boost pipe

Review Post intercooler boost pipe

(Sponsored eBay) Yellow Silicone Turbo intercooler Pipe Boost Hose Kit For VW GOLF IV /Bora 1.8T https://t.co/fQF1wpsHCS https://t.co/GiaiXzFORE

TG Upgrade.Seat Leon, Miltek Exhaust, Revo Software, Forge Intercooler Hoses & Boost Pipe and Eibach Lowering Springs. http://t.co/a6P6HlUA

#MERCEDES SPRINTER 906 2.1 CDI 2006-2017 TURBO BOOST INTERCOOLER PIPE A9065285082 #carparts UK https://t.co/i6dJUUSdzB https://t.co/xX1D65hsZv

Our company mainly deals with Silicone Hose, Clamp, Hose End(AN Fitting) , Alu Pipe, Intercooler, Oil Cooler, Radiator, Boost Controller,Wastegate,Exhaust Pipe, Muffler, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Oil Catch Tank, BOV,Air Intake Pipe,Air filter , Throttle Body, and so on. https://t.co/hFn0ZkdEAG

k8 Silicone Boost Intercooler Pipe Hose Kit For Audi A3 https://t.co/RH8SMpH4Y6 https://t.co/7VnMvlOBN2

BRAND NEW BMW E39 525d 530d INTERCOOLER BOOST PIPE TURBO HOSE 11612249669 https://t.co/oyvF3aTAnk https://t.co/ieu81Uevql

Problems this morning for @D_Bogie. Over ambitious jump damaging intercooler and boost pipe. https://t.co/Do8sLrDeGF

FORD FOCUS MK2 1.6 1.8 TDCI CMAX INTERCOOLER EGR SILICONE TURBO BOOST PIPE BLUE https://t.co/hXB9605eIt https://t.co/AOwMWcH5Zz

Intercooler and boost pipe replaced on a T5 #vw #Volkswagen #transporter #T5 #intercooler #boost #cornwall https://t.co/KHGUztbCvD

Banks Power LLY LBZ LMM Hot Side Intercooler Pipe Upgrade Boost Tube 25936 http://t.co/WjCReSZW11 http://t.co/aRmnhRVWe6

Review Q&A intercooler boost pipe

Can you safely put a turbo on any car?

Yes you can typically put a turbo on any car if there is the space to do it. In fact it is a fairly common modification on many older cars (cough* Honda Civics). Back in the days of Rice (people who cannot afford real performance cars but want the look and feel of one), slapping on a ,low pressure turbo, kit was a common thing to do. It was the cheapest and fastest way to increase the power output of your car by as much as 50 hp, with minimal changes to the car. For a typical 1.6L car with around 100hp, the difference was immediately noticeable. The setup can be pretty reliable and safe as long as you don’t redline it at the race tracks (the additional torque helps in everyday driving). You’ll need: A, ,suitable turbo, for your engine (TD04 or equivalent size was a popular choice for most 1.6 to 2.0L cars). A turbo manifold, to affix the turbo to your exhaust lines (manifold). Custom made ones are not that difficult to do if performance brand ones are not available. An oil line modification, to hook your turbo up to your current oil system for cooling. This also normally requires a modification to your oil sump for a return line. Custom pipes, to hook your turbo to your intake manifold. These are typically custom made if ready made kits don’t exist for your model. A ,piggyback or standalone ECU. ,This is the most crucial bit. Because now the turbo is delivering more air into your engine, more fuel needs to be injected as well to maintain the right ratio. A Piggyback ECU essentially tricks your ECU by intercepting the signals that go in and out of your ECU. For example it can receive the signal from your ECU for fuel injection duration, and multiply this by a factor to increase the overall fuel injection duration (= more fuel!). A standalone ECU replaces the entire ECU with a pre-programmed map. But typically this is very expensive and requires tuning and setup of every parameter of the car. Even things like the temperature which the fans should come on, and how the climate control system should work. Very time consuming and expensive option. These add ons are optional: Higher rated injectors and fuel pump, or secondary injectors ,- For a low pressure turbo setup (normally below 0.5 bar of boost), higher rated injectors or fuel pumps are not required. The danger comes if your wastegate fails or if you’re tempted to increase the boost. You won’t have enough fuel which might lead to a lean run and potentially blowing your seals. Intercooler, - For a low pressure setup, intercoolers are not required as the air doesn’t heat up that much. Also, not every car has space for an intercooler and modifications to the car’s subframe or structure might be required, which might need certification depending on your road laws. Blow off valve ,-, ,This is the thing that results in the ‘chuuuoooo’ when the throttle is released. Not essential in a low pressure setup as the pressure buildup is not significant enough to cause damage to the turbo. Also not advisable if you’re trying to keep the setup discrete if the authorities don’t allow turbo mods. Bigger or more efficient radiator, - With more power, comes more heat. If you’d like to prolong the life of your engine, an aluminium radiator swap would be nice to have, but not a real necessity. In Conclusion If done correctly, tuned and used properly, a low pressure aftermarket turbo system can last for many years. Of course with added complexity comes additional maintenance and things to go wrong. Things like turbo bearings, shaft play, oil leaks and stuff are common, but the setup should last for about 3 to 5 years before anything major needs to be replaced. There you have it! A turbo kit can be safely put on any car, and it’s not that difficult! But whether your country’s laws allow it - that would be the bigger concern. This was my turbo setup back in the day in 2007. It was on a 1993 1.3L Suzuki Swift GTi in Sunny Singapore. It was running 1–1.2 bar of boost (~170hp? at the wheels) with low compression pistons, upgraded fuel pump & injectors, aftermarket ignition coil, a 4-puck clutch, a piggyback ECU, and an aftermarket oil cooler. Sadly she was quite unreliable as I had to tow her multiple times in the 2 years I had her. The gearbox cracked, clutch cable broke, oil line blew (was a spectacular trail of white smoke).. among the few. The 0.6 bar setup by the previous owner lasted for about 2+ years before the rings leaked when I took over, and I got ambitious with the rebuild. A money pit, but she was a blast and so much fun. Had to move overseas and sold her to a friend, but she was eventually scrapped. RIP :(

Can I put a turbo charger in a 2011 Ford Fiesta? I was quoted 6 grand but I feel like that’s too high.

That's actually very reasonable - bordering on very cheap. I assume it is a low boost set up that requires no internal engine modifications and I can't imagine there are any ‘bolt on kits’ for a Fiests, but if there are, that may reduce costs. If no kit is available and only reasonable quality components are being used: Turbo (Garrett or Borg Warner) - $1500 Intercooler - $500 Oil Cooler and thermostatic filter housing - $400 Manifold Fabrication + Exhaust dump pipe and mods - $500 - $1000+ Silicone Hoses and boost pipes - $300+ New ECU (Haltech Sprint) or reprogramming of original unit (if possible) - $500(tune)- $1500(new ecu) Thats easily 4k just in parts. You can't really skimp on any of them. There will be other things such BOV and little things such as fabricating intercooler brackets and heat sheilds. Modifying the sump for the oil drain and plumbing Coolant and Oil lines to the turbo and cooler… You can cut corners on some parts, but I'm yet to see an ebay turbo get 100K service.

What is the proper way to implement an aftermarket turbo?

I'll break it up into a couple categories to make the laundry list more comprehensible and to give you some structure to tackling your project. Exhaust, You probably know how a turbo works already, the energy from the engine's exhaust spins a turbine wheel which is connected by a shaft to the compressor wheel. The compressor wheel compresses/charges air into the engine - increasing air density (more air and fuel = more power). The first step is to get the exhaust gas from your exhaust manifold to a turbo. You can either keep the stock collector and fabricate a custom pipe that will go from the collector to the turbo. Or you can fabricate or buy a turbo manifold. You'll hear/read about "equal length" manifolds - this means that all the manifold pipes coming off of each cylinder up to the turbo are equal length. Reason being is you want your turbo to spin up as quickly as possible. The exhaust "pulses" have a big impact on how efficiently/quickly it spools up. An equal length manifold will "time" the exhaust pulses in a way that they hit the turbine evenly and spin it up quicker than a traditional manifold. You may see the turbo spool up as much as 500rpm sooner with a well-built manifold. If your engine has more than one exhaust manifold (a "V" motor), you'll need a y-pipe for a single turbo set-up that joins the exhaust flow from both manifolds, or you can have twin turbos - one turbo per manifold. The exhaust then has to be routed from the turbo outlet to the back of the car. Turbos are great sound suppressants, so you won't need as many mufflers/resonators to quiet a turbo car down. A turbo car with a straight pipe all the way back can sound very nice. Key thing here is your manifold - you want it to flow well enough, be equal length if possible (though be ready to dump lots of $ on an equal length) and be STRONG. Big turbos with everything hooked up can weigh 50 pounds+. You don't want a cracked manifold. Invest in strong manifold head studs, you don't want your head studs breaking either. Boost Pressure Control, You'll want to control boost pressure. Too much boost can cause detonation (if you don't have enough fuel to support) which leads to melted or blown pistons. Boost pressure is controlled by a wastegate - which can either be internal to the turbo or external. A wastegate simply diverts exhaust gases through another path that is outside of the turbo - effectively "slowing" the turbo down. Internal wastegates are common on "stock" turbos, larger turbos generally use external wastegates. External gates can divert more exhaust than their internal counterparts (less boost creep), are more precise, and also allow for a wider range of mounting options. Wastegates can be actuated mechanically or electronically. Wastegates have a spring that are matched to a certain boost level. You can connect a boost line to the wastegate, and when that boost level is reached (say 10 psi) your wastegate will open and allow exhaust gases to bypass the turbine, and reducing your boost pressure. Once your pressure drops (to say 9.5 psi), the wastegate spring forces the gate shut, and it does this very quickly and repetitively to keep the boost flat at that 10psi level. External gates are generally more effective at doing this - internal gates can boost creep due to the smaller valve size and internal gate design. Electronically actuated gates are the same, except there is an electronic valve that releases the boost pressure to the gate only when it hits a predetermined level that is set electronically (so you can have it at 10psi and then increase it to 15psi at the touch of a button). You want to make sure that the "mechanical" limit of the wastegate - set by the spring - is lower than that of the electronic controller, or else the electronic controller will try to open the gate but the higher spring limit will keep it closed and you will boost up to the spring's limit. Mounting Options, To mount the turbo, you want to think about exhaust flow and fitment. Depending on where you mount it, you'll have to "clock" the turbo to make it work in that location. The turbine and compressor housings can be loosened and rotated. The center rotating assembly (with your oil and coolant line connections) can also rotate. You want your oil feed to be facing upwards and your oil drain to be no more than 15 degrees off of vertical (straight down) so you don't build up oil pressure in the turbo and risk leaking oil through the seals. Turbos without wastegates (external wastegate set-ups) are easier to clock because you're not limited by the wastegate actuator that sits on an internally gated turbo. Your compressor housing should point towards your intercooler so you can route your charge piping efficiently. Oil and Coolant Lines, Some turbos (journal bearing and others) are just oil cooled while ball bearing turbos may be oil lubricated and water cooled. For a non-turbo car, you need to essentially create these lines. You'll need an oil feed line and an oil drain line going back into your oil pan (take your pan off, drill and tap a hole). Same for coolant lines if needed. You want to be careful with oil pressure and volume, make sure you're feeding your turbo the correct oil volume. If you feed too much, the oil will blow by the seals and you will be burning oil in your exhaust as well as charging oil into the engine. Most turbo manfuacturers will tell you if you need a restrictor in your oil feed line depending on your car's max oil pressure. Charged Air, You will likely want to cool your charged air through an intercooler. There are various mounting options, but the most popular is front-mounted vertically. Be aware of the size of piping you use, bigger is not always better. The bigger the piping the more lag you will have (the turbo has more volume of space to pressurize). If you have twin turbos, you'll need a 2 into 1 intercooler design to route both turbos into one end and have a single charged air inlet pipe going to the engine. Make sure your clamps are on tight and that your pipes have a "lip" on the end to keep the couplers and clamps from blowing off. Boost leaks suck, you'll likely run into one at some point - and your piping will most likely be the cause. Blowing-off Excess Charged Air, Blow off valves (that make the "pshhhh" sound) release charged air when you get off the throttle and the turbo is still spinning/charging air. These valves can vent to the atmosphere or they can divert the air back into the system. This will be determined by the type of air-reading sensors your car has (read more about this in the tuning section below). Tuning, You could write a whole book about tuning alone. You want to be aware of what sensors your car has - is it MAP or MAF based (or both)? MAP reads absolute pressure in the intake system whereas MAF reads air flow. MAP is preferred for forced induction and is generally easier to tune. Your blow-off valve can vent to atmosphere (and make the nice sound) only if you have a MAP sensor. The car will read the pressure and the valve has to blow-off to get an accurate pressure reading. For MAF, when the valve is blowing off - the turbo is still pulling air in through the system - so your MAF sensor will read that the engine is actually using this air. The ECU will add fuel to compensate for that air reading and your engine will run very rich under these conditions. So for MAF set-ups you route that excess air back into the turbo compressor so that the turbo pulls in that blown-off air instead of pulling in fresh air through your filter (and through the MAF sensor). You want to make sure the air is routed back in after the MAF sensor so it doesn't read that recirculated air. Generally for a turbo application you want control of your fuel maps but also your timing maps. You can play around with ignition timing to help optimize your exhaust pulses and get the turbo to spool better. Bad timing can definitely increase turbo lag. Your common piggyback air/fuel controllers will not cut it for ignition tuning. There are some free open-source systems for complete ECU tuning capabilities for certain manufacturers. Nis-tune for nissans and Trionic Suites for Saabs come to mind. In general, manufacturers make it difficult for you to get complete access to the ECU "image" - which would be ideal since you wouldn't need an external controller "tricking" the ECU to read different air/ignition readings by intercepting the sensors. A good external/standalone tuner that has full ignition/fuel control will run you around $800. The Apex'i Power FC comes to mind. In addition you should factor in a couple hours on the dyno assuming you don't have any exhaust or boost leaks to get the tune done properly. You can get away with a piggyback fuel tuner, but being able to tune your ignition timing is very valuable and can help you run a much safer and higher-performance tune. Engine Internal Upgrades, Some engines can support turbos without much lower-end upgrades required. You mentioned pistons and sleeves - this will depend on the stength of your stock pistons and block. Aluminum blocks will have a lower boost limit than an iron block - and iron sleeves can help increase that limit. Without knowing what engine you're using I can't determine whether sleeving is necessary, but it generally isn't required. Pistons and rods are the most common upgrades since thinner/lighter components used in naturally aspirated applications are less likely to hold up to high boost levels. Forged pistons and rods are generally a good upgrade in this case. You also want to think about air and exhaust flow through the engine head. Upgrading your camshafts - epsecially on the exhaust side - can help you reduce turbo lag. Forgot to talk about compression ratio - so here's a touch on that. Naturally aspirated engines may have higher compression ratio (the amount the piston compresses the volume in the cylinder through its entire movement). You can reduce your compression ratio with different pistons - but a quicker/easier way is to install a thicker head gasket. The head gasket sits between the head and the block - and the head is the "top" of the cylinder that the piston is moving in. So you space the head, add more volume, and decrease the compression ratio. Lower compression ratios help you run higher boost with less risk of detonation. Detonation occurs when the air/fuel mixture "explodes" inside the cylinder instead of combusting (more of a slower burn). Lower compression ratio also reduces the stress on the rotating assembly under forced induction. Drivetrain, You will likely need to upgrade your clutch and potentially your transmission. Check to see what the power rating is for your transmission. Overall - for best bang for the buck - I recommend starting with a car that has:, - Iron block and strong pistons/rods from factory (some engines are known to hold 500-600hp in stock form - the nissan RB series, Toyota JZ engines, Saab B204, etc.; but these are all engines that came turbocharged from factory). Again Naturally Aspirated engines will likely have light-weight and more fragile components to reduce drag and make the engine more efficient, whereas forced induction engines have heftier components to handle boost - start with a something designed for what you want to achieve. - MAP sensor instead of MAF - just better suited for measuring pressurized air - A solid transmission - ECU control/access through an open-source tuning program - will save you thousands, and a car on a stand-alone unit will never run as smoothly as a car on an OEM ECU (plus having to pass inspection, etc.)

Will adding turbos improve or degrade fuel economy?

Being able to get the same power out of a smaller engine is the main improvement, but there is a secondary point. At cruising speed a turbo, mixed with direct port fuel injection, can actually have better MPG then the same engine without a turbo. The effect of the turbo spooling the intake (even when not going into positive pressure) will allow better mixture of fuel and thus require a little less to achieve the same output. Now there are 2 caveats to this. First and foremost this does not just happen without the engine ecu being re-tuned for the very different air-fuel and timing maps that it needs for the turbo. Secondly, the decrease in fuel economy when you accelerate will be far greater then the gain from highway cruising (think 40% loss for 2% gain). This is when comparing a 2.0T engine to a 2.0 non-turbo engine. Your question imply’s taking a non-turbo engine and adding a turbo, thus why I am looking at it from this perspective. Now FYI adding a turbo to a non-turbo car is not straight forward at all. To run low boost and see some additional horsepower you need: the turbo, a new intake, a new o2/turbo elbow, a new downpipe, wastegate (if not built into turbo) an intercooler, custom piping from turbo to intercooler to throttle body, oil and water line plumbing to turbo, a blow off valve, boost pressure gauge, and some sort of fuel controller. To get the most out of a turbo you will need to completely rebuild the bottom end of the engine with higher strength lower compression pistons, possibly better rods, possibly better cam shafts, mls head gasket and forged head bolts, bigger fuel injectors, bigger exhaust system, a more configurable engine computer/management system, and a boost controller

Why does a turbocharger require an intercooler while a supercharger does not?

In truth, neither turbocharging nor supercharging ,require, an “intercooler,” which is properly named a “charge air cooler.” Forced induction systems of all types can run without cooling the air charge, but doing so reduces the efficacy of the system. Forced induction, regardless of whether belt-driven (supercharger) or exhaust-gas-impeller-driven (turbocharger) work by pushing more air into the intake manifold. More air means more oxygen, which with additional fuel and spark mean more power (remember kids, suck, squish, bang, blow!). Accelerating air heats it, and compressing it heats it even more. If you remember, heat is simply motion at the atomic level and cold is just a lack of motion, so that’s pretty easy to remember. A basic diagram of a turbocharging system Intercoolers work by running air through a radiator made of many small fins of highly heat-conductive material, usually aluminum or similar. The air charge passes through the radiator, and since the car is moving, fresh air is running across the fins on the outside, enabling heat transfer. It is ,exactly, the same thing as your radiator (and if your car is equipped with them, oil or transmission coolers), with the only notable difference being that your radiator has fluid in it and the intercooler has air in it. Intercoolers are usually placed between the compressor fan where the air is accelerated and/or compressed and the intake manifold, cooling the charge after its heated and before it goes into the cylinders. A Roots-style blower sticking out of the hood of a muscle car, with carburetors and air filter on top of it. Intercooling is less common among superchargers for one simple reason - packaging. Roots type and twin-screw type superchargers are usually mounting directly on top of the intake manifold - usually as an actual ,part, of the intake manifold - which makes placing an intercooler difficult, though it has been done before. Centrifugal superchargers and turbochargers (which differ only in the fact that where the turbocharger has an exhaust-driven impeller, the supercharger has a belt-driven gearset instead) are remotely mounted, and thus make including an intercooler in the system easy. A more realistic view of packaging with an air-to-air charge air cooled turbocharging system. Note the remote placement of both the turbo and the intercooler This is a twin-screw supercharger. It is a positive displacement supercharger, meaning that it compresses air inside the supercharger as well as accelerates it into the intake manifold. Note that the compressed air comes out the bottom. An air-to-water intercooler for a twin screw blower, which mounts directly to the bottom of the blower. A twin-screw supercharger with integrated intercooler. Note the custom intake manifold that includes the intercooler, and the height of the system. Installed in a Subaru BRZ this SprintEX brand twin-screw intercooled supercharger barely clears the hood - notice the height of the pulley and supercharger assembly (in the very center of the photo, the large pulley with the belt going down is the supercharger drive pulley). Hood clearance will be very tight. Notice that the blue strut tower brace is significantly below the top of the blower. A Crawford Performance turbo kit for a Subaru BRZ. Notice the lack of height in the black intake manifold, allowing the strut tower brace to be connected, and the green piping which leads to the green and silver turbocharger mounted centrally at the front of the bay. The remote nature of turbocharging allowed the designer to move that mass away from the top of the engine bay leaving room for the strut tower brace to stiffen the chassis. Most factory superchargers are Roots-type blowers in the US. GM has used Eaton manufactured Roots blowers exclusively to my knowledge for decades, though supercharging has fallen out of favor to turbocharging, due to turbochargers being more fuel-efficient while providing more power at the price of a higher boost threshold (often mistakenly called turbo lag). In practice, most forced induction systems are limited to around 5–6psi of boost without some method of cooling the air charge. Boost is the amount of compressed air, measured in pounds per square inch in Standard measure or Bar in metric, above our normal atmospheric pressure added to the air charge. Earth’s atmosphere at sea level is 14.5psi or 1 Bar. So a system running 5 pounds of boost is pushing 19.5psi absolute, 5psi above our normal atmospheric pressure. We tend to find that pressures much above 5–6psi (.34-.4 bar) lose efficiency without a charge air cooler, where the air is expanding from being heated so much that it overwhelms the compression we’re trying to achieve. Adiabiatic efficiency map, showing air charge temperatures by color as they pass through a twin screw supercharger Few factory systems rely on anything but a traditional air-to-air intercooler (as described above, like a radiator), because the alternatives are either consumable or complex (which you can simply read as “expensive”). Aftermarket setups sometimes use water or methanol injection, which are exactly what they sound like, injecting those substances into the air charge, usually in the intake manifold, to cool the air charge through evaporation. The problem, of course, is that you run out of water or methanol and have to refill those tanks, and most people can barely be bothered to put gas in their cars and have their oil changed. You’ll also occasionally see air-to-water intercoolers, which run the compressed air charge over a heat exchanger filled with coolant to cool the air charge. These setups are more complex, and thus more expensive, because the coolant must be cooled down again after it’s heated, necessitating a pumping system to move the coolant around, check valves to ensure hot coolant isn’t recirculated before it cools down, and a second heat exchanger to dissipate the heat transferred from the air charge to the coolant. Thus ends your basic education on forced induction. Hopefully you understand the nature of forced induction and intercooling sufficiently to understand why charge air coolers are commonly used, but not required.

What if I remove the turbo will the engine still work?

Yes. The engine will still work and you will be able to drive the vehicle but it will be slower than the equivalent vehicle that doesn't have a turbo. It won't do any damage to drive a turbo car with no boost. Many cars have a ruptured boost pipe or a burst intercooler which means they have No boost. (The same as removing the turbo.) And they will go into limp mode. The engine ecu will detect there is no boost when there should be and operate the engine using a safe amount of fuel and ignition timing. I once had a car that was still driving with a seized turbo which is worse than disconnecting the turbo because the air that should be being sucked in by the turbo had to make it's way past the input impeller on the turbo that wasn't moving which actually made its job more difficult. The customer would have been better off pulling off one of his boost pipes. That would still have left the exgaust gasses not being able to get passed the exhaust turbine properly but it would have made the car run a bit better.

What would happen to the power/torque in a car if there is a small feed off the outlet of the intercooler to the air intake (post filter/pre turbo)? Please assume all other pipes are hooked up as standard.

Intercooler goes between turbo and intake manifold, to cool the compressed air. A “,small feed off the outlet of the intercooler to the air intake,” would count as a boost leak, and the ECU would call for more boost from the turbo to account for it. If the turbo is already providing max boost, you will lose power/torque. “,a small feed off the outlet of the intercooler to the air intake,” is not, and can’t be, “,post filter/pre turbo,”.

What is supercharging in IC engine?

A supercharger is any device that pressurizes the air intake to above atmospheric pressure. Both superchargers and turbochargers do this. In fact, the term "turbocharger" is a shortened version of "turbo-supercharger," its official name. The difference between the two devices is their source of energy. Turbochargers are powered by the mass-flow of exhaust gases driving a turbine. Superchargers are powered mechanically by belt- or chain-drive from the engine's crankshaft. Superchargers increase intake by compressing air above atmospheric pressure, without creating a vacuum. This forces more air into the engine, providing a "boost." With the additional air in the boost, more fuel can be added to the charge, and the power of the engine is increased. Supercharging adds an average of 46 percent more horsepower. In high-altitude situations, where engine performance deteriorates because the air has low density and pressure, a supercharger delivers higher-pressure air to the engine so it can operate optimally. To pressurize the air, a supercharger must spin rapidly -- more rapidly than the engine itself. Making the drive gear larger than the compressor gear causes the compressor to spin faster. Superchargers can spin at speeds as high as 50,000 to 65,000 rotations per minute (RPM). As the air is compressed, it gets hotter, which means that it loses its density and can not expand as much during the explosion. This means that it can't create as much power when it's ignited by the spark plug. For a supercharger to work at peak efficiency, the compressed air exiting the discharge unit must be cooled before it enters the intake manifold. The intercooler is responsible for this cooling process. Intercoolers come in two basic designs: air-to-air intercoolers and air-to-water intercoolers. Both work just like radiator, with cooler air or water sent through a system of pipes or tubes. As the hot air exiting the supercharger encounters the cooler pipes, it also cools down. The reduction in air temperature increases the density of the air, which makes for a denser charge entering the combustion chamber. Watch video for better understanding For more details refer howstuffworks.com

What was the most difficult car or engine repair or maintenance you have ever done? Were you successful or did you give up in despair?

There’s difficult, and there’s astonishing. I deliberately bought a clunker about six years ago: A Volvo V70 D5. £1600, after I’d sold my Brabus D6 for nearly 10 times as much: I wanted a car I dared to touch, and the Brabus wasn’t that. At first it was a continuous parade of horrors: On hot days, the shocks would work their way out of the top of the mounts. The PAS fluid was like oxtail soup, and the boost came and went literally according to the weather. The tyres were so old and bad, they had internally delaminated, and loads of stuff would go nuts if I even tried to run the rear screen wiper. Most of this stuff, though, was all about diagnosis and a little bit of shopping. I found the parts people who had bought all of Bilstein’s standard spec gas struts for the V70: that plus some top mounts & wishbones utterly transformed the handling. So did some actual tyres. Replacement turbo rubber pipes fixed the boost - when the turbo is a bit leaky, the oil soaks into the piping and makes it go all soft n stretchy, so when the turbo sucks, the pipe collapses. Probably the longest job was replacing the intercooler, which on a D5 is in a weird threeway with the aircon condenser and the coolat radiator. The only sign the intercooler is dead is that the centre section bows up very very slightly. After a deeply satisfying summer, I had a monster car. Really. They may be rated at 163bhp, but let me tell you, this is flat out the very best mile-muncher I’ve ever had - the 5 speed manual with that turbodiesel engine was absolutely superb for alpine passes: and I say this coming from a Brabus Mercedes. However: no matter how well it drove, the tailgate was still a no go zone. Wouldn’t lock, wouldn’t run any of the systems even near it. Eventually, I read a forum posting that said this was the wiring loom passing along the tailgate hinge - the flexure breaks up the insulation and everything cross-circuits. And so it was! Took more time peeling off all the trim and wrapping from the loom, than I spent then dropping in more flexible wire and soldering up all the joints. Put it all together and… well, OK so the wiper now wipes. But the tailgate lock did absolutely nothing. I resigned myself to taking all the trim offf that too. And found… a nest of polypropylene levers. The lock is about eight to ten inches across, with a set of sliding joints which lock by disengaging the lever from the handle - it can slide but it can’t move the hook of the lock. There was also a solenoid, which would be orevented from operating by a microswitch: this would be pressed on by the nest of levers only when the tailgate was shut. Or, in my case, when someone had inserted a little pink-coloured cube of driveway gravel into the nest, so that the microswitch and solenoid combination would never trigger. I took out the pink cube of rock: The tailgate locked, opened, closed and unlocked perfectly. I know this isn’t a ‘difficult job’ as such: What it is, though, is an example of an absolute genius at work. I don’t mean me: I mean the guy who, faced with a very long and difficult wiring-loom job, cast around on his pink gravel driveway for a better solution. I might not have been exactly grateful for what he did, but I do admire the inventiveness at work in understanding those rods n sliders and putting that little cube in exactly the right spot.

What is the difference in performance of an intercooler between front mount and top mount? Both intercoolers are of the same dimensions

Top mount will give you a shorter boost pipe set up which can shorten the time required for system pressurisation but as the engine bay is a very hot place and heat rises top mounting is not as effective at lower speeds and traffic/ start line running situations there will be heat build up greater than front mount. This can reduce the intercooler efficiency and leave you with warmer less dense air.

intercooler boost pipe

Artikel Terkait intercooler boost pipe

MG Thailand doubles xEV battery production, boost in demand for PHEVs

No more V6/V8 engines in 2021 (W206) Mercedes-Benz C-Class, including AMG models

New 2020 Mercedes-Benz C200 AMG Line debuts in Malaysia, now with Mercedes Me Connect

Indonesia is making it easier to get loans to purchase an EV

Mercedes-Benz adds PHEV variants to A-Class: A250e hatch and sedan

The Daihatsu Rocky is more expensive than the Toyota Raize, why?

Why the W205 Mercedes-Benz C200 1.5-litre EQ Boost died so soon in Malaysia?

Gov to cut 100% sales tax for CKD cars and 50% for CBU cars, cheap enough?

PDRM arrests Alza driver who assaulted Honda S660 driver until he lost 7 teeth

Owner Review: The heritage hot hatch - My Volkswagen Golf GTI Mk. 7

NA vs Turbo: Why they say there’s no replacement for displacement

2020 (G30) BMW 5 Series facelift vs pre-facelift, is newer better?

2020 Toyota GR Yaris launched in Japan – Smaller, more special rival to the Civic Type R

Spyshot: Daihatsu Thor seen in Malaysia, what is it doing here?

Owner Review: My Perodua Kelisa - Great car for those who are thinking of getting their first car

Rendered: Is a 2021 Proton Iriz R3 in the making? 30% performance boost?

Mod My Car: Shopping for a niche 15-year old car - My Subaru Impreza WRX STI

VW and Bentley say COVID-19 will boost electric cars, VW to invest €33B

2020 BMW iX3 debuts: 286 PS, 400 Nm, 460 km range

Priced from RM 140k, the new 2021 Honda CR-V facelift is launched in Malaysia, LaneWatch for all variants!

Jalan Klang-Banting closed for repair works for a week following road cave-in

BMW X5's rival, CKD 2021 Mercedes-Benz GLE 450 launched, priced from RM 475k

The all-new 2020 Nissan Almera’s engine has something lifted from the R35 GT-R!

BMW Malaysia introduces CKD 2019 BMW X3 M Sport

Future owners of Perodua D55L, the Toyota Raize Modellista body kit is waiting for you

Tom's tunes 2020 Toyota GR Supra and Toyota Century

2021 Toyota Corolla Altis adds TSS to more Thai variants, can it boost past the Civic?

DBKL parking payment goes cashless, but no JomParking and TnG e-Wallet... yet

15 years ago, this Korean car invented the SUV-coupe, not BMW!

Spied: 2021 Honda CR-V facelift spotted - coming to showrooms near you real soon

Review Post intercooler boost pipe

Review Q&A intercooler boost pipe

Can you safely put a turbo on any car?

Can I put a turbo charger in a 2011 Ford Fiesta? I was quoted 6 grand but I feel like that’s too high.

What is the proper way to implement an aftermarket turbo?

Will adding turbos improve or degrade fuel economy?

Why does a turbocharger require an intercooler while a supercharger does not?

What if I remove the turbo will the engine still work?

What would happen to the power/torque in a car if there is a small feed off the outlet of the intercooler to the air intake (post filter/pre turbo)? Please assume all other pipes are hooked up as standard.

What is supercharging in IC engine?

What was the most difficult car or engine repair or maintenance you have ever done? Were you successful or did you give up in despair?

What is the difference in performance of an intercooler between front mount and top mount? Both intercoolers are of the same dimensions

Tags

Berita Topik Panas

Merek Motor Terkait

Merek Mobil Populer

Motor Populer Terkait

Model Mobil Mewah

Warna Model Populer

Gambar Model Populer